CAT & KITTEN CARE
... Grooming
Page 3 of 3
Indicators of Good Health in Kittens and Cats
Scratching (Claws)
Pet Insurance
Cat Supply Check List/Cat
Toy Favourites
GROOMING
There are some differing views on
this issue but in general there is usually no reason to bathe your cat
especially an indoor cat. However, you should brush or comb your cat
regularly. Frequent brushing helps keep your cat's coat clean, reduces the
amount of shedding and cuts down on the incidence of hairballs. As long as
their skin is healthy and parasite-free they should not be scratching or
constantly shedding. Cats spend a large percentage of their days grooming
themselves and they are experts at it. Using their barbed tongues they lick
dirt and debris off their fur in order to keep it clean and odor free. Cats
with long hair may require the occasional bath if their fur gets too oily.
Their fur can get too oily based on climate conditions and the individual skin
of the cat. There are also occasional times when your cat's fur may get
excessively dirty due to some mishap that the cat has gotten itself into. In
some of these cases it may be necessary to give your cat a bath. If your cat
is a show cat and is about to be shown then it will need to be bathed as well.
You should know right off the bat
that almost all cats hate baths, so be prepared. Here are some tips to make
the experience easier:
-
Cat baths are smoother when 2
people are bathing the cat. One holds the cat while the other bathes the
cat. Bathing the cat should be done in the bathroom where you can close the
door to prevent escapes. Noise (like rushing bath water) is always an issue
for the cat so anything to keep the noise level down will help. If your cat
is long haired, groom it *before* bathing it. Water will just tighten any
mats already in the coat.
-
Preparation is everything - Run
the bath water BEFORE you put the cat
in the bath and make sure the water is not too hot and not too cold. The
height of the water should reach the cat's underbelly.
-
A rubber bathmat placed in the
tub will give the cat something to grip when it gets nervous and is a good
idea.
-
Use a cat shampoo recommended by
your vet, groomer or other qualified pet professional. If you are attempting
to remove grease, oil, or other petroleum products from your cat's fur, try
using Dawn brand detergent first to remove it, and follow up with a cat
shampoo. Dawn is used by volunteers who clean up birds after oil spills.
-
Do NOT wet the cat's head.
Instead use a moist washcloth or towelette if the cat's face and head are
dirty. GENTLY wet the cat from neck to bum using a cup or small pail with
the bath water itself and start shampooing at the neck and move toward the
bum. Then wash the legs.
-
Meowing and yowling at this
point are normal. Just continue rubbing in the suds gently. Don't use
too much shampoo.
-
The rinsing is the most
important part as shampoo left on a cat's skin will make your cat scratch
itself thereby irritating its skin. Start draining the bath water. While it
is draining, start rinsing the cat's fur with the remaining bath water using
cup or small pail. This gets the 'big suds' off. Use or buy a cheap shower
attachment for this next part. With warm water from the shower attachment,
rinse and rub the fur well from neck to bum. Once you think it's clean do it
again quickly making sure there is no shampoo residue.
-
While in the tub put a towel all
around kitty and start gently rubbing all around its body. It must be a
gentle rub or pat down because especially in a longhaired cat, you don't
want the rubbing to create new knots. Remove kitty from the tub and use
another towel to further absorb water from the fur. If your cat is
longhaired, you will want to groom it as the coat dries.
-
If you have a hair dryer that
does NOT make too much noise you can try rubbing the fur while blow drying.
Make sure that if your cat is NOT completely dry that you put it in a WARM
room so that it does not catch a chill and get sick. This CAN happen easily.
Give the cat a treat after the bath, this may help them tolerate the
process.
Note: It is 100% normal for
the cat to start licking its fur immediately after you've finished all your
hard work.
We recommend the use of
Miracle Coat Foaming Waterless Shampoo For Cats
as an alternative for those that prefer a less invasive method of bathing
their cat.
INDICATORS
OF GOOD HEALTH IN KITTENS AND CATS
** Energetic, playful and interactive.
** Ears should be clean and free of discharge, excessive wax, or parasites.
** Eyes should be clear and the membranes pink. Any dishcharge or redness may
indicate an alergic reaction or infection.
** Eating and drinking regularly.
** Normal, relatively firm stools and regular, pain free urination.
** Skin should be free of excessive dryness and flaking. Coat should be clean,
shiny and parasite free.
** The Abdomen nor any other part of the body (limbs, muscles) should not appear
swollen or painful to touch.
** Movement should be effortless and pain free.
SCRATCHING
Cats need to scratch. When a cat scratches, the old
outer nail sheath is pulled off and the sharp, smooth claws underneath are
exposed.
Provide your cat with a sturdy scratching post, at least three
feet high, which will allow her to stretch completely when scratching. The post
should also be stable enough that it won't wobble during use, and should be
covered with rough material such as sisal, burlap or tree bark. Many cats also
like scratching pads. A sprinkle of catnip once or twice a month will keep your
cat interested in her post or pad. You may want to place several scratching
posts or pads in different areas of your home as well.
A cat tree is an essential piece of
furniture as it helps to keep cats off of your own furniture. In addition, they
will provide your cats with a source of entertainment and energy release. You
can purchase some very good quality, sturdy, pieces of cat furniture made of
solid wood from these
fine companies:
Crazy Cat Condos and
BJ Marketers.
Cutting your cat’s nails every two to three weeks
will keep them relatively blunt and less likely to harm the arms of both humans
and furniture however, this is not really in the best interests of the cat. See
the article below on "Claws".
Claws
The cat's claws are unique in the animal kingdom in design and function. Many
mammals have claws, with the primary function as an aid in digging and
climbing, and for added traction. The claws of these animals are continuously
growing, like our own finger nails, and are kept from growing too long through
their use.
Cats, however, have evolved a very specific use for their claws, comparable
to birds of prey. Although their agile climbing abilities are greatly
supported by them, and the claws are also frequently used to maintain good
traction, the main purpose, especially for the claws of the front paws, is to
get a good grip onto their prey, and ability to hold on to it. The design of
the cat's claws demonstrates this very nicely. The shape of the claws is
sickle-like with a needle sharp-tip. To maintain the sharp tip, cats are able
to retract their claws into a skin pouch while walking to avoid wear and tear.
Of course the cat's claws grow and renew themselves continuously, but not like
a human's fingernails or the claws of dogs. For a better understanding,
envision the cat's claws to be built very much like an onion. The claw grows
within, whilst the outer, worn layers are shed. The outer layer will loosen
from the cuticle and fall off, a process which is supported by the cat's
scratching behaviour, leaving behind paper-thin claw contours (husks) at her
favorite scratching post.
Claw "Husks"
Because the cat's claws are
such "weapons" many care givers like to clip their companion cats' claws to
avoid injury to themselves, or destruction of furniture. This process,
however, severely interrupts the claws’ natural renewal cycle. By clipping the
tip of the claws the outer layers to be shed often accumulate alongside the
claws and under the cuticle, frequently resulting in an infection of the nail
bed. An accumulation of old layers on clipped claws often gives the appearance
of brittle claws, which care givers often remedy by lubricating the claws with
oil. The oil will soak through the entire horny tissue of the claw, gluing the
layers together. Subsequently, the claws will grow into large, dull stumps,
often causing discomfort to the cat.
Avoid clipping a cat's claws altogether. To avoid injury, reduce
unnecessary handling of the cat, and have cuddle and stoke sessions on the
cat’s terms. Don’t pick up a cat that dislikes being picked up. Play with toys
attached to a stick or suspended from a string. Provide the cat with suitable
scratching locations and objects to avoid damage to your furnishings.
Keep in mind that it was your choice to invite a predator into your home as a
companion animal. Respect the cat for who she is and handle her accordingly.
This way, injury should be rare and only accidental.
If you must clip a cat's claws because of young children in the house, or for
showing purposes check
the claws regularly for infection, and remove old, built-up layers with your
nails.
Otherwise a cat's claws needs little attention besides the occasional removal
of waxy debris from around the cuticle. Do not lubricate a cat’s claws with
oil! Instead make sure your cat receives all necessary fatty acids and high
quality protein through her diet for healthy claws. (Reprinted:
Feline Future Cat Food Company
Copyright © 1994-2006 by Natascha Wille. All rights reserved.)
PET INSURANCE
In order to determine which pet insurance company is right
for you and your cat, some research will be necessary. There is an excellent
article on
Pet
Insurance published by the Ontario Veterinary Medical Association (2005)
that discusses a variety of topics which will help you decide on which insurance
company offers the best package for you and your cat's needs. Topics discussed
include: evaluating your need for pet insurance, various categories of insurance
available, questions to ask insurance companies, and answers to common questions
about pet insurance. The following are links to several pet insurance companies:
Cherry Blue Pet
Insurance,
PC
Financial Pet Insurance,
Vet Insurance,
**
Pet
Secure Insurance,
Pet Care Insurance,
Shelter Care.
Note: We use and
recommend ** Pet Secure Insurance
CAT SUPPLY
CHECKLIST ... Things to buy before bringing your new kitty home.
- Premium-brand cat food
- Food bowl, preferably stainless steel or ceramic
- Water bowl, preferably stainless steel or ceramic
- Interactive toys
- Brush
- Comb
- Scratching post, scratching pad, cat furniture
- Jumbo Size Litter box
- Litter scoop and holder
- Litter
- Catnip (Catnip spray is easier to use on scratching posts.)
- Cat carrier
- Cat bed with warm blanket or towel
-Air tight container for food storage
-Air tight container for treat
storage
-Tightly sealed refuse bin for litter box waste
-Spray disinfectant and paper towels for cleaning
CAT TOY FAVOURITES
(Note: The cats pictured with the toys below are not our cats.)
Cats
love to play. They are hunters by nature, and playing helps hone that instinct.
Kitty Kat Circus by Four Paws
Kitty Tunnel
Turbo Scratcher by Blitz
Cat-N-Mouse Cat Toy by TLC
Peek-a-Prize Toy Box by Smart Cat Laser Cat Toy
by Miracle Beam
